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Phil discusses his tools and his preferred methods of sharpening.
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Forming the outside of the goblet.
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Phil begins to hollow the "cup" of the goblet. Remember, since this is spindle oriented, you must start
your cut in the cernter and move out. This is th opposite of bowl oriented work.
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Phil begins with a blank mounted spindle orientation in a chuck. Spindle orientation is having the
grain run parallel with the lathe bed. The pith is in the center of the blank. Phil uses 3/8" and
1/2" bowl gouge and a 3/8" spindle gouge with swept back bevel. Phil turns the inside with a 3/8" bowl
gouge from the center out and sands as needed. He positions a lamp so it shines into the opening and
shapes the outside of the cup from the rim toward the stem. The lamp allows Phil to gauge the thickness
of the cup wall as the wood begins to glow. He then works from the base to the stem to provide room
to finish the cup. He then shapes the base and stem from the base up. Phil refines the cup to stem
join with the spindle gouge and improves the base and stem always cutting downhill. When the piece
is refined and sanded he parts it off.
Phil demonstrated that a well proportioned piece follows
the classic Golden Mean, width times 1.618 equals height (3 to 5 for the less mathematically adept.)
He told us that his preferred finish is Valspar Urethane Oil, and he described a treatment for curing
green turnings that he and Ron Kent, a turner known for turning translucent Norfolk pine bowls, are experimenting
with. Phil turns a piece to 1/2" thickness and soaks the rough turned piece in a solution of water
and dishwashing detergent mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio. After 3 or 4 days he removes the piece from the vat
and lets it drip dry for a couple of days. He then finish turns the piece. In addition to minimizing
cracking Phil finds that the treatment lubricates the piece so that turning is like turning green wood.
Our own Tom Buchner has been using this technique and has held pieces in the solution for quite a while
with good results.
Phil then turned a deep bowl using the same method he used to turn the goblet
except for using a Termite ring tool mounted in a Stewart tool. He decorated the bowl using a grooved
parting tool and then reversed the piece with a jam chuck to turn off the tenon and shape the foot.
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